Growing Almond Trees

– Information On The Care Of Almond Trees

 

Cultivated as early as 4,000 B.C., almonds are native to central and southwest Asia and were introduced to California in the 1840’s. Almonds (Prunus dolcis) are prized for use in candies, baked goods, and confections and for the oil processed from the nut. These stone fruits from growing almond trees are also reputed to aid in a number of physical ills and are used in folk remedies for everything from cancer treatment to corns to ulcers.

 

How to Grow an Almond Tree

 

When growing almond trees, it is helpful to know that the trees do not tolerate wet soil and are extremely susceptible to spring frost. They thrive in mild, wet winters and hot, dry summers in full sun. If your region does not fall within these parameters, it is unlikely an almond tree will set fruit for you.

Additionally, very few varieties of almond tree are self fertile and, therefore, need cross pollination for fruit production. So, you will need to plant at least two trees. If space is at a premium, you can even plant two in the same hole, wherein the trees will grow together and intertwine, allowing the flowers to cross pollinate.

 

 

Almond trees are deep rooted and should be planted in deep, fertile and well draining sandy loam. Almond trees should be planted 19-26 feet apart and irrigated despite the fact that the trees are drought tolerant. An application of nitrogen and organic fertilizer will aid in growth. These trees have high nitrogen (N) and phosphorus (P) requirements.

To plant the almond tree, dig a hole wider than deep and make sure the roots fit easily into the depth of the hole, then water in deeply. You may need to stake the little tree if you live in a windy area, but remove the stakes after a year or so to allow the tree proper growth.

 

Care of Almond Trees

 

Almond tree care varies according to the season. In the winter or dormant season, the growing almond trees should be pruned (December/January) to promote growth, allow light, and remove any dead or diseased limbs or suckers. Clean the area of debris around the tree to eliminate overwintering navel orange worms and spray with dormant oil to kill peach twig borer, San Jose scale and mite eggs.

During the spring bloom season, care of almond trees should include fertilization of mature trees with urea or manure, watered in or small doses of nitrogen for young trees. Drip irrigation should be initiated daily with the trees needing 2-3 inches of water. If the tree is planted in shallow or sandy soil, it will need more water.

During the summer, continue to irrigate and fertilize at the same rate as the spring application up until harvest.

 

Harvesting Almond Tree Fruit

 

The harvesting of almond tree fruit occurs after the hulls split and the shell becomes dry and brown in color. Almonds need 180-240 days for nuts to mature wherein the nut (embryo and shell) has dried to minimum moisture content.

To harvest the almonds, shake the tree, then separate the hulls from the nut. Freeze your almond nuts for 1-2 weeks to kill any residual worms and then store in plastic bags.

 

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Plants And Potassium

Using Potassium And Potassium Deficiency Plants

The effects of potassium on plants is well known in that it improves how well a plant grows and produces but exactly why and how is not known. As a gardener, you do not need to know the why and how in order to be hurt by a potassium deficiency in plants. Keep reading to learn more about how potassium affects the plants in your garden and how to correct a potassium deficiency.

Effects Of Potassium On Plants

Potassium is important to plant growth and development. Potassium helps:
Plants grow faster
Use water better and be more drought resistant
Fight off disease
Resist pests
Grow stronger
Produce more crops
With all plants, potassium assists all functions within the plant. When a plant has enough potassium, it will simply be a better overall plant.
Signs Of Potassium Deficiency In Plants
Potassium deficiency in plants will cause a plant to perform more poorly overall than it should. Because of this reason, it can be difficult to see specific signs of potassium deficiency in plants.
When severe potassium deficiency happens, you may be able to see some signs in the leaves. The leaves, especially older leaves, may have brown spots, yellow edges, yellow veins or brown veins.

What Is In Potassium Fertiliser

Potassium fertilizer is sometimes called potash fertilizer. This is because potassium fertilizers often contain a substance called potash. Potash is a naturally occurring substance that occurs when wood is burned away or can be found in mines and the ocean.
While potash is technically a naturally occurring substance, only certain kinds of potassium fertilizers containing potash are considered organic.
Some sources refer to high potassium fertilizer. This is simply a fertilizer that is exclusively potassium or has a high K value.d

If you wish to add potassium to your soil at home, you can do so in several ways without having to use potash or other commercial potassium fertilizer. Compost made primarily from food byproducts is an excellent source of potassium. In particular, banana peels are very high in potassium.
Wood ash can also be used, but make sure that you apply wood ash only lightly as too much can burn your plants.

Greensand, which is available from most nurseries, will also add potassium to you garden.
Because potassium deficiency in plants can be hard to spot through looking at the plant, it is always a good idea to have your soil tested before adding more potassium.

 

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Cankers On Trees

How To Treat Cankers
You may have noticed some unsightly cankerous looking wounds in your tree. What are tree cankers and what causes them, and how do you treat cankers in a tree once you see them? Continue reading to learn more about the types of canker in trees and how to go about preventing tree cankers.
What Are Tree Cankers?
Cankers on trees appear as isolated dead areas on the bark, stems, branches or twigs. Cankers may appear as discolored areas or depressed places on the bark.
A fungus that enters the tree and grows between the bark and the wood killing the bark generally causes cankers.
However, cankers can also be caused by damage from weed eaters, lawnmowers, chemicals, insects or environmental conditions.
The canker itself makes the tree highly vulnerable to bacteria, fungus and insects. Young fruit trees have an especially difficult time recovering from cankers. Established shade trees may weaken and become susceptible to wind damage.
The healthier the tree is, the more likely it is to ward off serious damage from a canker disease. Trees that are weakened by temperature, drought, poor nutrition or other present diseases are much more susceptible to canker diseases. Canker diseases are more common with hardwood trees than on conifers.
Type of Cankers in Trees can Vary
Depending on the region where you live, different cankers on trees are found. Some of the more common types of canker in trees include:
Thyronectria canker is caused by a fungus and is most common on the honey locust tree.
Nectria canker tends to attack deciduous shade trees, crabapples and pears.
Cytospora canker is found most often in fruit trees, hardwood forest trees and shrubs, as well as over 70 species of conifers.
Hypoxylon canker is seen in different species of oak including red and white.
How Do You Treat Cankers in a Tree Effectively?
So how do you treat cankers in a tree? Preventing tree cankers is the best method of protection. It is best to plant native or well-adapted species for your growing region. These tree species will suffer less stress and adapt well to the soil type, sun exposure and overall environmental conditions in your area.
The avoidance of stress is the best and most effective protection against canker diseases. Proper tree care including watering, feeding, mulching and pruning will help to keep trees as healthy as possible.
Once a tree has canker, it is essential to remove as much of the canker fungi as possible from the tree to avoid infection and spread. Prune only during dry weather and make cuts with a sterilized cutting tool at least 4 inches below the edge of the canker on trees.

 

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Pruning Roses

Pruning is a great job to undertake and I can't wait to get started. But early winter (June), with our temperatures still reaching 17 degrees , it's still too soon and I will have to restrain myself a little longer. It's that time of year again and many roses enthusiasts are turning their minds to this task. There are principles to be followed if you want to do the right thing, but there is really no need to find it daunting.

Just a few major steps first for beginners.
The more you know about your rose the easier the task will be.

For example:

• Is your rose once-flowering or remontant (repeat flowering)?

• What is its normal growth habit - climber, tall, medium or short bush?

• Do you get frosts in your area? This is very important for the timing of pruning.

 

When to prune
The time varies according to rose type and location.

• If your rose is just once-flowering, it should be pruned as soon as possible after the flowering is finished and this usually means late spring or early summer.
• Most old and species roses require little or no pruning, other than to keep the plant from growing far too big (so you cut to the size you want – allowing for growth in the following season).
• The oldest less productive, dry- greyish looking stems can also be removed to encourage the growth of more productive (young , green, sappy-looking) stems from the base or from near the base.
• I cut out old wood (to the base of the plant) and prune back any branches which are clearly too big ( or going to be too big), knowing that although I may lose some flowers by doing this, there will still be a wonderful show in the following season from the many canes
• I have left. Be aware that any pruning at this time will remove the hips which can otherwise make a wonderful show and be enjoyed throughtout the summer and well into autumn.

• That is what I usually prefer to do. In Autumn, when the hips are past their best, I cut out old wood (to the base of the plant) and prune back any branches which are clearly too big ( or going to be too big), knowing that although I may lose some flowers by doing this, there will still be a wonderful show in the following season from the many canes I have left.

• Repeat-flowering roses also benefit from being pruned after flowering, so I prune them three or four times each season.
• It is the severity of the pruning that varies. In summer, most gardeners are happy to just dead- head their roses, and certainly this is usually adequate after the first flowering in the spring. Even at this time, however, I take each stem of a spent flower well back if the rose is a very vigorous variety, so that it does not become too tall or 'leggy' in the summer. Other stems may just be tipped. This procedure is repeated in the summer and perhaps in early autumn (depending on the season and the variety). I have had good flowering well into May, in a season with prolonged warm weather and little rain.

• By late autumn or early winter, the rose garden is generally in need of attention, but my advice is to let it rest if possible and not rush into the winter prune (the most severe prune), too early. In so doing, you may be able to enjoy the last few odd roses with their unique touches of autumnal colourings, and you do allow the new young stems to grow and harden off, before you have to consider what should be pruned away. In frost-prone or very cold areas, leave the pruning until all chances of frost or extreme cold are over. If you prune early and warm weather follows, new growth will appear on the plant and this will be damaged when the cold comes. The plant is unnecessarily 'knocked back'. Wait for all leaf fall, to show the plant is dormant.

How to winter prune

• After many years of pruning thousands of roses I still most frequently stand in front of each rose and think 'What on earth am I going to do with this?' Over the years, the answers just come a little more quickly. If the top is very tall, spindly and in my way, I may initially just clip it all off roughly, at one level, with hedge clippers, to allow me to work more easily.

• Then I go to the base of the plant and I like to use two handled secateurs to cut out the old stems (see description line 15, above) and any laterals (small stems coming from main ones)which cross over or which are growing towards the middle of the plant. Using my one handled secateurs, I make my way up from the base in this way, aiming to clear the centre of the plant and to maintain a good structure with strong, upright stems forming the shape.

• Clear away all leaves and debris that may have collected at the base.

• When I reach what can be considered an appropriate height for that plant - short, medium or tall - I then look to prune each stem to a bud at the desired height ( remember to allow for the spring growth).
• The later you leave the pruning the easier it will be to find a bud, as they begin to swell. Basically, however, there will be a bud at each leaf join. (pull away a leaf from the stem and you will find a slight swelling or even just a line).
• Find a bud growing in the direction you want the next stem to grow, (usually outwards, keeping the centre free), cut at an angle about one centimetre from the bud, so that the lowest part of the cut is on the side opposite to the bud. (this is the ideal, but if it sounds too complex do not be overly concerned; just cut at this level and with time as you become used to pruning, you will find appropriate buds easily).
• Shape the top of the plant as you desire – stems should usually be of similar height or perhaps reach a dome shape if there are many.

• Carry away and dispose of all prunings and leaf litter as they harbour diseases.

• Spray plant and surrounding area with lime sulphur to keep diseases such as blackspot at bay.

Pruning climbers

• This is task is even more clearly demonstrated in the garden, but basically the same principles apply as those given for bushes.
• Each year one or more of the oldest canes may be selected to be pruned out to encourage new basal growth.
• The remaining long canes are best bent and fixed in fan shape or horizontally, as flowering will then occur at frequent intervals. If this is not possible and all the growth is to be vertical, with flowering just at the top of each stem, cut these at different levels.
• For example, if stems are upright against a wall, pole or fence, leave the back two or three as tall as possible (or desired), select the next two or three and prune them somewhat shorter, and so on down the plant in a graded effect, with the shortest at the front.
• Flowers will then develop at all levels instead of the unappealing 'bare-legged look' with all the flowering at the top and just stems at eye -level and below.

There is no need to feed at this time. Wait until the warmer weather comes and the first signs of growth(buds swelling ) can be seen. You will be well rewarded within a few short weeks!

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Tree Disease & Fungus Treatment Services

Tree Disease & Fungus Treatment Services

Tree disease diagnosis and tree protection treatment begins with a comprehensive inspection of your landscape by one of Zeal Property Maintenance industry-certified arborists. During a consultation, your arborist will be able to determine the overall health of the landscape, identify specific tree diseases, and recommend any needed tree services to preserve the vitality of your property. Zeal Property Maintenance experience, expertise and state-of-the-art equipment enable us to quickly diagnose tree diseases and recommend specific treatments for tree protection and vitality.

 

Treatment for Tree Diseases

 

Tree service programs designed to maximize the health and beauty of your landscape need to take into account the specific conditions of the trees at your home. Tree disease treatment is most effective when the type of tree, disease characteristics and your personal preferences are all taken into consideration.

Zeal Property Maintenance foliar tree disease treatments are designed to protect your valuable evergreen and deciduous ornamentals from damage due to foliar tree diseases.

Most of these are caused by fungi that are prevalent during spring when the weather is rainy. Treatments provide a protective barrier on the leaf or needle surface that will prevent the germination and growth of spores that cause tree diseases.

Common Tree Diseases and Treatments

 

Professional tree disease treatments can help protect your landscape investment and enhance your property value. Our arborists are experienced tree doctors who diagnose and treat many types of trees, including pine, elm, dogwood, maple tree varieties, cherry, ash, willow, magnolia and many others. Below are some of the most common tree diseases and their treatments:

Dutch Elm Tree Disease

 

Dutch Elm Disease has felled feature elm trees on many northeastern landscapes. As a preventive measure, specimen elm trees (Ulmus americana) can be successfully trunk injected during the spring/summer with a treatment that will prevent the development of the Dutch Elm Disease fungus for up to three years. However, this tree disease treatment is not always effective against previously infected trees.

Fruit Tree Diseases

There are specific fungal infections, as well as insect and mite activity that commonly affect orchard trees and which may impact the production of edible fruit. Zeal Property Maintenance fruit tree disease treatments follow a protocol developed by several leading universities, utilizing the minimum number of treatments required to facilitate a productive harvest.

Sycamore Anthracnose

 

Sycamore Anthracnose is a common tree disease that results in extensive defoliation, shoot dieback, and twig death of your sycamore trees especially when extended periods of wet weather occur in the spring. Because it is very difficult to control through conventional disease treatments, Zeal uses a macroinfusion system that will prevent infection of your sycamore specimens for two years.

Zeal can also help prevent and treat other common tree diseases including dogwood anthracnose, apple scab, cedar apple rust and more.

Call 1300882787. today for a complimentary consultation with Zeal Property Maintenance fully trained professionals and certified arborists

 

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Tree Disease & Fungus Treatment Services

Tree Disease & Fungus Treatment Services

Tree disease diagnosis and tree protection treatment begins with a comprehensive inspection of your landscape by one of Zeal Property Maintenance industry-certified arborists. During a consultation, your arborist will be able to determine the overall health of the landscape, identify specific tree diseases, and recommend any needed tree services to preserve the vitality of your property. Zeal Property Maintenance experience, expertise and state-of-the-art equipment enable us to quickly diagnose tree diseases and recommend specific treatments for tree protection and vitality.

 

Treatment for Tree Diseases

 

Tree service programs designed to maximize the health and beauty of your landscape need to take into account the specific conditions of the trees at your home. Tree disease treatment is most effective when the type of tree, disease characteristics and your personal preferences are all taken into consideration.

Zeal Property Maintenance foliar tree disease treatments are designed to protect your valuable evergreen and deciduous ornamentals from damage due to foliar tree diseases.

Most of these are caused by fungi that are prevalent during spring when the weather is rainy. Treatments provide a protective barrier on the leaf or needle surface that will prevent the germination and growth of spores that cause tree diseases.

Common Tree Diseases and Treatments

 

Professional tree disease treatments can help protect your landscape investment and enhance your property value. Our arborists are experienced tree doctors who diagnose and treat many types of trees, including pine, elm, dogwood, maple tree varieties, cherry, ash, willow, magnolia and many others. Below are some of the most common tree diseases and their treatments:

Dutch Elm Tree Disease

 

Dutch Elm Disease has felled feature elm trees on many northeastern landscapes. As a preventive measure, specimen elm trees (Ulmus americana) can be successfully trunk injected during the spring/summer with a treatment that will prevent the development of the Dutch Elm Disease fungus for up to three years. However, this tree disease treatment is not always effective against previously infected trees.

Fruit Tree Diseases

There are specific fungal infections, as well as insect and mite activity that commonly affect orchard trees and which may impact the production of edible fruit. Zeal Property Maintenance fruit tree disease treatments follow a protocol developed by several leading universities, utilizing the minimum number of treatments required to facilitate a productive harvest.

Sycamore Anthracnose

 

Sycamore Anthracnose is a common tree disease that results in extensive defoliation, shoot dieback, and twig death of your sycamore trees especially when extended periods of wet weather occur in the spring. Because it is very difficult to control through conventional disease treatments, Zeal uses a macroinfusion system that will prevent infection of your sycamore specimens for two years.

Zeal can also help prevent and treat other common tree diseases including dogwood anthracnose, apple scab, cedar apple rust and more.

Call 1300882787. today for a complimentary consultation with Zeal Property Maintenance fully trained professionals and certified arborists

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Top dressing for your lawn at the beginning of the growing season

Why Topdress?

The main reason for topdressing is to level the lawn or build it up to the desired level. Topdressing fills holes or low spots and encourages the grass to spread by giving it a medium to grow in.

Tools

Successful topdressing requires a few tools and some suitable soil. A good wheelbarrow with an inflatable tyre will make wheeling the soil easier. For shoveling and spreading the soil, an aluminium shovel is priceless. A small level-lawn is also a worthwhile investment for leveling and rubbing the soil in.
Soil selection is up to you but it is best to use a soil that is consistent with the soil that the lawn is growing in. This is usually sandy type loam. I prefer use a clean sandy loam rather than some of the lawn topdressing mixes available today which may claim to contain organic matter and fertiliser. My reasons for this are that a clean soil is easier to work with, resulting in a better looking finished job and you can make more money by fertilizing your client's lawns at a later date. It is up to you as a professional lawn contractors to determine the required amount of soil that is needed to complete the job.

Preparation

Before you actually spread the soil, make sure the grass is actively growing. Don't top dress dormant grass. You will damage it, if not kill it. A good idea is to give the lawn a fertilize a couple of weeks before topdressing, this will help the grass push through the soil quickly. Also, mow the lawn the day before you do the job. Long grass takes more soil to cover properly and the thicker the soil layer, the harder it is for the grass to emerge.

Doing the Job

Alright, you've fertilized, you've cut the lawn, purchased the soil and you are ready to go, but it looks like rain! DON'T DO IT! Why? Besides making a big mess, wet soil does not rub in well and can sometimes dry like a hard crust on top of the grass, making it very difficult for the grass to grow through.
Okay, now the sun is out, lets get into it. Start by spreading an even layer of soil over the lawn covering the entire area. I've seen many people topdress their lawns but only covering it roughly. If you are going to the trouble, at least make sure you do it right.

Once the lawn is completely covered, don't rush in to level it off, give it a couple of hours to dry first. This will allow you to rub in the soil more effectively and you will be able to fill up holes rather than smoothing wet soil over the top. This couple of hours will allow you to go and mow another lawn or work out what to do with any soil you have left over.

Once the soil is dry, start to rub it in with the level-lawn. This can be done in any direction, just as long as you go over the whole lawn. Pick up any excess with a shovel and make sure the job is as neat as possible. Leave the site clean and tidy. Sweep up any soil off paths and drives as clients really appreciate it and it makes you look more professional. Don't water the lawns for a couple of days. This will let the grass punch through the soil.

 

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787